(Source: China Daily)
Experiencing China's October's Golden Week
By Bruce Connolly | chinadaily.com.cn | Updated: 2019-10-12 10:48
National Day and the subsequent Golden Week is always a fascinating time to be in China. This is particularly true for people, such as myself, long intrigued with this vast country. It is an opportunity, for example, where photographers can observe local people while capturing great moments through the lens. It presents a chance to perceive the emotions people have towards their homeland. This has been particularly true for 2019 as Oct 1 marked 70 years since the founding of New China.
I arrived in this country thirty-eight years after 1949. My initial impressions were then formed less than nine years after the implementation of 'reform and opening up'. Yes, in many ways China today bears little resemblance to what I encountered in July 1987. Living through such times has provided personal experiences that I am sure I could never have come upon anywhere else!
Although I was not in Beijing on National Day this year, television coverage provided excellent views of the parades along Chang'an Avenue, passing the iconic landmark of Tiananmen Gate. Indeed I am sure television gave a more comprehensive impression of the events than if I had been at street level watching it all pass along in front of me. However, following the commentary in a hotel room 100 kilometers from Beijing was without the passion and general excitement of actually being there in person. What did come over, apart from the incredibly well-disciplined military parade, were the civilian processions, which certainly brought joy to the spectators. There were the many aspects of China's recent achievements but there were also smaller, more human touches. I particularly loved seeing the displays around the traditional black bicycles - after all Beijing, not so long ago was 'capital of the bicycle'. Also, who would ever have expected to see the delivery men on their electric bikes joining in such a prestigious event. That I felt was a good touch. Through the morning I realized spectators, many like myself, must have lived through the recent periods of growth, while indeed, some would be remembering well beyond the past 70 years.
Over the holiday period I was out photographing people in Tianjin. From the resulting images, there have been many positive comments on how people of different generations appeared content, and indeed, quite happy. I personally could sense this as I walked among often large crowds obviously enjoying themselves.
An aspect of National Day, since 1999 has been the seven-day 'Golden Week' holiday. Basically people in a relaxed holiday mood will inevitably spend money! A great boost for local economies nationwide. Indeed, this year also saw the creation of outdoor food and drinks markets. Along Tianjin's pedestrian street Heping Lu, a street normally quiet at night, snack and food stalls lined its entire length. The area thronged with strollers nibbling on grilled lamb skewers or the city's famed twisted bread sticks and much more.
As I sat there regularly to have cold drinks, it was a time for not only people watching, but also to reminisce over a lengthy personal China journey.
My first experience of National Day and its significance occurred in 1992 while working and living in Guangzhou. A reception was held for foreign experts by the city government in one of the leading hotels of that period. It coincided with my growing personal interest in discovering more of China's complex and long history. With so little previously incorporated into our educational systems, virtually everything I would come across was a new learning experience, including the significance of Oct 1.
Between 1993 and 1997, then still in full-time employment back in Scotland, exploring China was achieved during holiday periods. Fortuitously, in my homeland I also developed many contacts and relationships both with the local Chinese community in Glasgow, along with the opportunity to attend official receptions, for example at the Chinese Consulate in Edinburgh.
By the autumn of 1997, I had returned to continue my life in China, along with a strong passion for travel. Starting off from Beijing, on what became known as 'A Journey to the Lake of Heaven', by late September I had reached Urumqi in Xinjiang. On Oct 1, traveling by bus along with many visitors from across the country I finally reached Tianchi, the Heavenly Lake. It was a glorious, sunny autumn morning. Snow high up on Bodga Shan Mountain glistened while around the tranquil waters trees whose leaves were turning golden adorned its shoreline. National Day 1997, yes I truly felt in heaven!
In the early 2000's one holiday was spent at the beautiful coastal city of Qingdao on the Shandong peninsula. That proved to be another lovely experience for it is one of China's 'Wedding Cities', a location where couples would go to hold their receptions but more commonly for the customary photographs. I was amazed watching them, in full bride and bridegroom regalia, standing on rocks with the sea lapping at their feet while photographers worked away capturing some eternally romantic moments!
Regularly I would remain in Beijing during the October vacation. It was a good time to be in the capital. Traffic was generally light, with many locations uncrowded if the Forbidden City or Nanluoguxaing alley were avoided. The weather was often excellent; walking was a pleasure. There were activities such as Beijing Design Week, partly held in traditional courtyards around the historic districts of Qianmen-Dashilar. It was a time to appreciate much that is beautiful about the city, to enjoy the colors of the parks, stroll or cycle alongside canals to take in so much during that last major break before winter sets in.
This year, 2019, I spent the holiday in Tianjin. Only 30 minutes from Beijing by train with very frequent services all day, the city is very accessible, even at peak times. It was an opportunity to continue documenting, through my camera, its many facets that I have been attempting over several years. It would also allow me to capture images of what again was a very pleasant time for many people.
From my hotel room, high up above the Haihe River, there were superb views of downtown buildings. Many were lit up with digital images, messages and iconic symbols conveying the spirit of not only National Day, but the special significance of this 70th year for China. Along the riverside, strips of lights changed color. Indeed some evenings I would sit at my window totally transfixed with what was turning out to be an incredible visual performance.
Jiefang Bridge, just south of the Tianjin Railway Station, is a much loved, historic city treasure. Early evening I would walk along to areas within its vicinity. It was busy, mostly with locals, creating an almost party atmosphere. From the bridge there were so many scenes to capture with the camera. People were out enjoying local snacks, some prepared on stalls actually on the bridge itself. For me, so much to take in along that stretch of river. Close by, modern Dagu Bridge had its sweeping twin arches literally wrapped in red. Riverside buildings were outlined in strings of lights while the 336-meters-tall World Financial Tower rose above the waters like a great silver beam. Some towers changed their exterior colors from red to blue, pink, purple and more. It was transfixing. Adding to the attraction were the many long pleasure boats carrying visitors for evening views of what is both a 'City of Bridges' and a 'City of Lights'. Really beautiful.
Along parts of the Haihe, outdoor cafes had opened allowing panoramic views of the evening illuminations. What also attracted large crowds were the ceremonial openings of the Jiefang Bridge. This event only happens on special occasions. Completed in October 1927, it is a cantilever structure that historically lifted, splitting in the middle to allow the passage of ships. It was my first experience of watching this happen although such were the crowds that I was quite far back from the heart of the action, but still memorable.
Much of the time I also photographed everyday people on the streets, some carrying the National flag, others working at the many food stalls. It was very much a time I could feel my belief that cities indeed are for people.
National Day 2019 has been especially significant marking this special 70th anniversary for the founding of New China. Personally it was both an enjoyable and thoughtful time to be out and about mixing with the people, watching their enthusiasm while capturing, through the lens, many moments in such an historic milestone for the country.
The photos with this feature were all taken during the October 2019 holiday.