2. Descending the Rapids

We had now reached the most dangerous part of the river, for there were here three rapids at no great distance apart which had to be passed. The waters were then low and the rocks numerous, threatening no little danger to the boats. When the water is high, navigation is less difficult, for the difference of level in the rapids becomes much less, and the danger of being driven on to the rocks is also greatly diminished. The increasing roar caused by the falling water warned us of the close proximity of the rapid, though we had heard it a long way back. At the first big fall we unloaded our boat, carrying everything on the men's shoulders along the shore beyond the dangerous part; but we all returned to the boat to make our dash through the foaming waters. For me it was quite a new sensation; and indeed, I felt it was quite possible I might never have the opportunity of narrating it. I had full faith in my Kayans, however, and especially in the expert who wielded the steering paddle at the stern. Drawn up to his fullest height, he looked eagerly for the best passage. This was no easy task, for not only had the steersman to avoid the rocks which were above water, but those just covered by it, which were still more dangerous, capsizing the canoe in an instant. At first the current seemed nothing out of the common, but, as we approached, it increased in force until there seemed almost something uncanny in its overwhelming strength. About fifty or sixty yards (45 or 54m) from the rapid our steersman had already made up his mind as to the line to be followed. His great object was to keep the boat with plenty of way on in the current; for woe betide us if we but swerved an instant—we should have been at once capsized and done for! As we approached the bigger part of the fall the paddlers redoubled their efforts, and our long, light, narrow boat shot like an arrow down the swell, and in an instant was righted in the bubbling waters of the pool beneath, in a cloud of pulverized water which formed a mist-like column around us. I feel that it would be attempting the impossible to endeavour to translate into words the emotions of that moment, which came and went like a flash of lightning!

When we got into the comparatively tranquil waters beyond, our boat was full and would inevitably have sunk but for the rapid and able manner in which the Kayans baled the water out. Some of them jumped overboard to lighten the boat at once.